Marvin C. Ross was just 8 years old the first time he watched Willis Spells, his neighbor in Dorchester, South Carolina, make barbecue hash. Relatives and friends showed up to sit outside with Spells ...

Hash for me, as it is for so many other Americans, conjures up memories of family dinners, good food, contentment. Strange, then, how maligned hash has been, generally. At one time the words "hash ...